Gule Wamkulu

We were greeted by this unwelcoming character as we entered the village to teach class this week.

On the way, we had a couple of uncomfortably close calls with children darting from alleyways to escape the advances of these masked men. Judging by the crowd, we first thought there was a harmless performance going on, but then it began to look a bit dangerous. Some of the troublemakers were carrying pipes and throwing rocks. It seemed the entire village had been thrown into complete mayhem.

We drove on past the armed hoodlums only to find our path blocked by one with no weapons. Because Snoden was with us and we were curious, we rolled down the window to talk to him. All he said was, "Give me money" in English, no less. We did not give him money and he didn't answer any of our questions, but we noticed a large group of villagers watching us talk to him. Some look terrified and others were yelling and cheering. (I wish I could give you more commentary on what the onlookers were thinking. Snoden thinks some of them thought we were brave--not so much regarding physical harm as spiritual--while others were just more excited to see white people than those guys.)

After discussing our experience with others and reading various articles about the origin of this strange encounter, I can offer you this modest explanation of the facts that agree in each account. (Everyone seems to have something different to say about what it all means.) I hope it helps you understand a bit more of the culture we're learning about every day.

Gule Wamkulu is a type of dance that is believed to date back to the Chewa Empire of the 17th century. It literally means Big Dance and was traditionally performed by the Nyau, a secret society of the Chewa people, at among other things, funerals and initiation rituals. It involves fast, intricate footwork and flinging dust into the air to the beat of drums. Young men are appointed by village chiefs to spend several nights in the cemetery then emerge dressed in masks and costumes made of various materials including feathers and animal skins. Each costume represents a spirit, and the dance is thought to be a communication with the villagers' dead ancestors and even the unborn.

Some spirits are harmless but others invoke fear, and many people, especially children, run and hide when they see them. Even if someone recognizes one of the "spirits" as her husband or brother, it is considered taboo to mention it, the punishment of which may be a beating or worse. While the men are in character they are thought to be spirits themselves, appointed by their god Chiuta to communicate with the dead.

Beliefs and traditions surrounding Gule Wamkulu has changed over time with an increase in foreign settlers and missionaries bringing new teachings and ideas. However, there is still a strong presence here, especially after the July harvest, at which time the dances are said to ensure fruitful harvests in the future. For many, the original purpose to communicate with the dead is a serious event, but for others it's just an amusing tradition to be celebrated in honor of southern Africa's heritage.

It seems that we came upon the costumed men before or after their dance and witnessed them chasing and scaring the villagers. When we reached our study group, many of our students were absent. Maybe they were hiding in their homes as many people do when they see the "spirits" approaching.

As thrilling as it is to experience African culture on this level, we hope to educate those entrusted to us that Gule Wamkulu is tradition, not truth. I asked John what he thought people would think of such a bizarre and scary site as we saw today. He said probably the same thing a Malawian would think if he visited an American neighborhood around the end of October.